Land Of The Rising Fun

Cream puffs have been causing a sensation on the Upper West Side since the opening of Beard Papa's Sweets Caf� (2167 Broadway at 76th Street, [212] 799-3770), where a perpetual line of patient pastry lovers come for the Japanese chain's specialty, the secret of which is a two-layered shell consisting of a soft, choux pastry interior surrounded by pie crust. The light, crispy puffs are filled to order on a mini assembly line with a mixture of whipped cream and vanilla custard, then dusted with confectioners' sugar. They cost $1.25 apiece, or $1.45 for daily specials such as green tea filling.

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