Man Bites Dogs

If there's anything Eddie Andelman is more passionate about than sports, it's hot dogs. It's been estimated the 70-year-old talk radio legend and founder of the annual Hot Dog Safari, a fundraiser for cystic fibrosis, has downed 25,000 franks�"probably more," he says. At first we were skeptical, but then he took us to his secret spots, where we learned: 1) Andelman has an unnatural ability to store food, and 2) like Chicago, Boston is a great hot dog town.

1. Simco's A legendary operation founded in 1910, and a favorite of cops and municipal workers. Standing room only.

The Dog: A nicely buttered roll cradles this slender, grilled all-beef frankfurter. The bar staff piles on any requested condiments.

Eddie says: "This is my idea of a great place to eat. Who the hell eats at the Ritz? Only the Mayflower people." Eddie could eat: Two doubles (double dog, single roll), with relish.

$2.55, 1509 Blue Hill Ave., Mattapan, 617-296-3800.

2. Eire Pub A classic Irish pub established in 1962, with a horseshoe bar and plenty of Sox memorabilia. Ronald Reagan came here during a presidential campaign swing.

The dog: A steamed Kayem on a steamed bun, with toppings added by the bartender.

Eddie says: "Though it's steamed, it doesn't lose its flavor, which is rare." Eddie could eat: Six, plain. "But I gotta watch the Sox while I'm doing it." $1.79, 5 Adams St., Dorchester, 617-436-0088.

3. Fuddruckers Like Chuck E. Cheese's, without the oversize rat�and known for burgers instead of pizza.

The dog: A grilled quarter-pound Pearl split down the middle and served on a roll made in-house every day. There's also a serious, do-it-yourself fixin's bar: onions, relish, jalape�os�the works.

Eddie says: "Perfectly grilled. Perfect roll. Top quality." Eddie could eat: Two, with mustard and relish�"if Judi [his wife] isn't around." $3.99, Rte. 1 N., Saugus, 781-233-6399.

4. New England Hot Dog Company A local joint that looks like a chain, thanks to its drab, generic tables.

The dog: Customers choose kosher, skinless, footlong, or all-beef and add any of 45 toppings, like Ipswich Ale mustard.

Eddie says: "They use real butter on their roll. But they microwave it. The only thing that should go in the microwave is popcorn. And maybe bacon." Eddie could eat: Three Provincetowns (a dog with mozzarella).

$1.95�$3.95, 1940 Revere Beach Pkwy., Everett, 617-394-9663.

5. Kelley's Square Pub Kelley's is filled with fantastic pictures of owner and former local boxer John Mastrangelo's glory days�and quite a few of Eddie himself.

The dog: A stubby frank cooked in pizza dough, a sort of pig-in-a-blanket on steroids. No condiments required.

Eddie says: "The dough gives the dog a great taste. It's really unique." Eddie could eat: Eight. "But I gotta watch the Celtics while I'm doing it." $4.95 for two, 84 Bennington St., East Boston, 617-567-4627.

Halfway Caf� A dimly lit hangout with Sox gear and a quality beer selection.

The dog: A full-pound all-beef monstrosity that's bigger than your forearm. They have to custom order the roll to accommodate this beast, which comes with fries and toppings.

Eddie says: "See these slits? It allows the dog to cook in its own juices. It's big enough�like a steak�that it can do that." Eddie could eat: A whole dog, with relish�maybe.

$8.99, 394 Main St., Watertown, 617-926-3595 Originally published in Boston Magazine, May 2007.

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